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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have the top and it's on but I have to remove the header on it so it sits on the window frame. I would need a cutting wheel of some sort like a grinder to cut it and need someone that knows how to fabricate things

I'm in Marlborough if interested let me know!
 

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King Thread De-Railer
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the YJ top is set up completely different going to involve alot of trimming and fab work. hmm let me see if i can dig up a write-up on it.
Seems like this should be able to be done. Time to find out.

Here is the YJ top sitting on my TJ before I begin screwing it up


and the inside view


drill out the rivets and get that rusty piece of sheet metal off of there


Here is the view before I begin cutting. The plan is to remove both sides of the gasket channel down to the depth of the channel. I did the inside lip first and then the outside.


after cutting off the inner lip (sorry, no photo of that stage) I poked through from the inside with a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder and then moved to the outside and just floated along while feeling the insde of the gasket channel.


Not too bad for the first big chunk removed.
 

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King Thread De-Railer
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2,801 Posts
Now swap out the cutoff wheel for a regular grinding wheel and begin to even that up. Still eyeballing it. just to the depth of that gasket channel.


the results. getting better.


trial fit #1


Make a guess where the line needs to be based on the trial fit. Lay down some tape for a guide and more work with the grinder.


and of course trial fit again


switching weapons for close in work. Now using a heavy grit belt on a belt sander.
I used a sharpie marker to mark the high spots and then worked those down with the sander.


trial fit number 3


The rails along the tub now sit down flush. The front lip still looks a bit high but it can be compressed down onto the windshield gasket. Going to work up some latches for the front lip and try tightening them down a bit before removing more material with the sander.


I picked up some foam to put into the remaining channel once the clamps are installed for the front lip. Just seems wise to fill that void.

For clamps I intend to sacrifice my Smittybuilt header. Going to cut a piece of Aluminum from Ace Hardware and drill it to match the holes for pop rivets on the remaining inner lip. Then will bolt that onto the top, fit up the donor clamps and drill their screw holes through the lip as well. Hopefully that evens out the tension I'll be applying to the lip with those clamps. It might be good enough at that point or else it comes back off for some more material removal.

All in another day....

-Andrew

Oh yeah, if you want to see all of the photos in larger sizes go to http://www.werdna.net/images/jeep/

click on the photo and then right click and open the resulting image in it's own window/tab for silly resolution.









As planned drilled holes in a 1/16" x 4' aluminum strip to match the rivet holes in the YJ top. Mounted them with #10 bolts.

Drilled that out for the clamps off a smittybuilt header. Installed some slightly longer M8 bolts in the clamps to account for the larger gap than the header uses.

Placed some 1.25" foam in the channel in the hardtop and clamped it all down.

It isn't as quiet as a Cadillac but it is a HUGE imrovement over the soft top.

Bring on the snow!

-Andrew


found on if orig poster has a problem with repost please contact me
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/convert-yj-top-tj-1280238/
 
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