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Discussion Starter #1
My dad and I picked up a 1 ton steering conversion for his TJ to replace the stock tie rods and drag links.

the Kit
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1231_1247&products_id=89921

Came with all the TREs 3 tapered inserts for the knuckles and pitman arm.

Stock


Step 1 lock the steering wheel

Step 2 place jack stands under the axle and remove tires Now is a good time to measure from knuckle to knuckle to roughly set the new tie rod

Step 3 remove the stock steering stabilizer from the axle



Step 4 remove the 3 tie rod ends, both knuckles and from the pitman arm


Step 5 now the fun part, drilling the knuckles and pitman arm. We started by drilling them out to 5/8ths then stepped it up from there. to 7/8ths for the inserts. A corded drill and new bits are highly recommended.



Step 6. after drilling the knuckle and pitman arm out to 7/8ths install the new tie rod with the tapered inserts. keeping the same amount of thread showing on both sides. tighten down the castle nuts and install codder pins. Do not tighten the jam nuts on the TREs yet.

Step 7. Install the new drag link starting with the pitman arm side followed by the tie rod side. along with the castle nuts and codder pins. Grease all of the TREs now

Step 8. remount the wheels with the axle still on the jack stands and align the tie rod. 1/16th to 1/8th toe in. (a professional alignment may still be necessary) once its aligned remove the jack stands and have the jeep resting on its own weight again. tighten the jam nuts at this time

Step 9. Unlock and recenter the steering wheel. Adjust the drag link untill the tires are straight. then tighten the jam nuts down.

Step 10. clean up and test drive make sure it tracks well and steering wheel is where you would like it. check all joints again and make sure they are tight

Finished product
 

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Internet Owner
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Nice! Great write up too. Thanks.
 

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Look into Reid Racing Knuckles to move that steering even higher. Great post, thanks for sharing.
DM_W :)
 

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Done


Well done on the writeup :)
 

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Wouldn't a Currie setup with a flip kit give ya more beef and clearance?
I like the big tierods, definite improvement, but for rock play you want steering as high up as you can get away with

 

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All he needs to do is get different bushings (flip kit) and shorten the drag link to convert his to top side steering. No sense in buying another 1 ton steering setup, plus his has better geometry than the Currie steering pictured.
 

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All he needs to do is get different bushings (flip kit) and shorten the drag link to convert his to top side steering. No sense in buying another 1 ton steering setup, plus his has better geometry than the Currie steering pictured.
Isn't there a problem with draglink/ tierod roll on this setup. The Currie steering geometry is fine have been driving that Jeep like this for the last 4 years.
You are right about the flip kit, is a nice add on but in his case will only work on the left wheel
 

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Not that I have seen. I have heard of some people saying they have experienced that, but I attribute it to lack of knowledge. Look at how many people misdiagnose death wobble. The Currie setup changes the toe as the suspension moves up and down, the tie rod/drag link doesn't. I'm running a op side drag link/tie rod on my d60. I just used a tapered reamer to change the hole taper and installed bigger GM tie rod ends.
 

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With 40+ years of Jeeping
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I don't see what lift you have so this may not be relevant but have you experienced any bump steer with this set up? The angle between your tie rod and the drag link is pretty wide and this often will cause bump steer and sometimes a torque steer.
 

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My little Jeep is a pretty much standard setup 3.5" lift 35" tires, Currie steering with a flip kit and all control arms. Works well and takes tons of trail abuse.
As long as draglink and trackbar are parallel then the angle of both of them is not all that important. Drop pitman arms aren't really all that good a thing
 

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The Teraflex high lift kit for the Dana 44 has the tie rod below the axle. I would need to drill the driverside tapered hole to and put a tapered insert to flip the tie rod on top of the hub steering arm. At least the tie rod save the axle form scratches. I just have to bend it back into shape.
 

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If you did all that work, drilling out the knuckles and pitman arm. Why wouldn't you just run a full custom cross over steering setup with Heim joints?
 

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Running heim joints in a single shear application would not be the safest way to go in this application, imo TRE was the best choice. I have top side steering and still retained TRE's. There's nothing wrong with TRE's so long as you don't exceed their operating angles.
 
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