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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 92 YJ 5 speed that I just recently got. Im in the process of lifting it starting off with a 1 1/4 body lift which will be finished once the new body mount bushings get in. I am also installing a 4 inch Rough Country lift that comes with the t case drop. My question is how is that t-case drop going to be affected by the body lift. Am I going to have to cut up the tub in order to have full range on the shifter? Can i do without the drop? Any help is appreciated.
 

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I can't speak for a yj, but on a TJ with similar lift, we had to remove about an inch of tub behind the shifter.

If the PO had done it when he installed it, would have made our life easier.
 

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You can do a motor mount lift instead of the TC drop I believe but don't quote me on that.

Personally I would do the SYE and forget about it but that also costs a few bucks.
 

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The tc drop is for drive shaft angle if you don't want to get a sye. If he wants to eliminate any issues with shifter and tub clearance with the body lift. I'd suggest an sye and a motor mount lift. It'll also improve his driveline angle with that lift anyway. Just my .02
 

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I know the motor mount lift does the same thing as a TC drop but I am not sure with his combo of stuff.
This.
I did the 1 inch Brown Dog motor mount lift and eliminated my t-case drop.
I did the motor lift at the same time as the body lift because you have to move the fan shroud if you don't. The body lift comes with spacers for the body and grill, so the grill moves up but the motor stays the same. Thus, the fan will hit the bottom of the shroud.
Lifting the front of the motor with the BD lift does angle the trans down a bit, not a lot but enough to eliminate the t-case drop.
As for the suspension lift tho', that changes things.
The drive shaft MAY be too short. With the stock drive shaft you keep the pinion flat (stock) and you should have at least half if not more of the slip yoke in the t-case tail cone. Any less than half and you risk it dropping out on full axle droop.
Withe an SYE you eliminate that problem but you must change the pinion angle with shims between the axle and leaf spring on the rear axle. You will need a Double Cardan drive shaft for that which has the slip yoke in the middle of the shaft.
Don't forget to check the DC in shaft yoke on the front shaft for travel too. No need for axle shims on that one as it is stock with the SYE from the factory.
Your lift kit should come with a drop pitman arm too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got my lift started, 20 years of rust is fighting me, had to cut off the rear track bar and one of the bolts from the rear spring hangers. Other than needing to reweld the rear shock mount the rear is done. Just taking the wheels off and looking at the front hurts my knuckles. Think my biggest obsticle is the front track bar. Is there a trick to getting that bastard out of there?
 

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Got my lift started, 20 years of rust is fighting me, had to cut off the rear track bar and one of the bolts from the rear spring hangers. Other than needing to reweld the rear shock mount the rear is done. Just taking the wheels off and looking at the front hurts my knuckles. Think my biggest obsticle is the front track bar. Is there a trick to getting that bastard out of there?
Sawzall. You won't be putting it back on so cut it out.
 

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And PB Blaster is your friend. Spray a lot and often, let sit, spray again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I got my body mount bushings in the mail finally went out and put them on followed the directions that came with them but they look off. It says to put the lift spacer on top of the body mount bushings is this right? (PIC BELOW)

Also my rear shackles are pointing forward. I havent driven the jeep yet. The shackle bolts are tourqed to 35 lbs as per the directions until the vehicle weight is fully back on the springs. Do my springs just need time to settle or am I going to need longer shackles?

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I got my body mount bushings in the mail finally went out and put them on followed the directions that came with them but they look off. It says to put the lift spacer on top of the body mount bushings is this right? just wanted to make sure before I tightened everything down (PIC BELOW)

Also my rear shackles are pointing forward. I havent driven the jeep yet. The shackle bolts are still tourqed to 35 lbs as per the directions I was waiting till I got the front done to go through and make sure everything is tourged to specs. Do my springs just need time to settle or am I going to need longer shackles?

 
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