Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, so we all wanted a jeep. bought a 2002 wrangler X with a 2 inch body lift, and 33's, has rock crawler gears ( found out the hard way ) and is a stick.
After about two months it picked up a "tick" and my mechanic thought a u joint, but couldn't find it, he said drive it for a while, and on the way home, tore the transfer case and front drive shaft off. had another mechanic friend (who has had several jeeps ) replace the t case and front shaft ( it has a double "carrigan" and "S.L.Y." and he put low mileage ones from the scrap yard back on)
Well about 1000 bucks later and I'm up and running, but two more months and the drive shaft picks up another "tick" ( audable only at low speed ) and before I get a chance to put it on the rack, the shaft tears loose and beats the side of the t case again!
The "angles" are fine, the case has rubber mounts, and no one can figure out what is causing this. I can't keep putting a grand into this thing every couple of months, but I love my jeep. please help!:confused:
 

·
Internet Owner
Joined
·
9,510 Posts
The SYE and double cardan drive shaft are on the rear shaft. The front shaft is stock as a double cardan.
The 2 inch body lift will not effect the drive line at all since it does not change anything in the suspension.
A couple things could be taking out your front shaft. Either a bad yoke bearing in the front of the transfer case, or a bad pinion bearing on the front differential. If the front pinion yoke is bent it can cause premature u-joint failure too.
But what I'm wondering is if the gears match in both axles. If they don't, they can take out the weakest point, and it usually takes out the t-case chain or a u-joint.
Have you gone wheeling in that month of no tick that you have put it into four wheel drive?
Have any changes at all been done to the suspension?
Can you snap a pic of that front drive line angle at the pinion yoke?
Are your motor mounts and t-case mounts in good shape?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
The front drive shaft on a TJ has a cv joint/ double cardan joint.
The tick or noise you are hearing is the centering ball running dry. When it gets hot enough the centering ball will weld solid inside its socket and on the centering pin and that is when either the shaft comes out or it breaks the transfercase in half. In the last case the bolts at the transfercase yoke might have come loose.
Those need to be tight and it's a pain since they are hard to get too and the small 5/16" or 8mm bolt head doesn't help either. Check the bolt holse in the yoke to make sure they are not beat out. When you get another used driveshaft or if this one is still usable, rebuilt the cv joint/ new u joints and centering ball and check the pin the centering ball runs on. This is a known and common problem. Running in water and mud doesn't seem to help it either.
Post some pixs of the carnage and I can give you a better description of what happened
 

·
Internet Owner
Joined
·
9,510 Posts
See? Another reason to own a YJ. The list just keeps getting longer and longer. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
See? Another reason to own a YJ. The list just keeps getting longer and longer. lol
I beg to differ Ricky, when your square contraption has as many offroad trips on as my Jeeps and you do so without any major breakdowns we'll talk what Jeep is better :D The front CV on a TJ is a maintenance item that gets ignored.
We don;t have this funky disconnect, we can flat tow without any modification.
We don't have crappy feed back carburators, ours come standard with power steering and a decent brake booster. Want me to continue :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think that the cardan joint centering ball may be a possible answer. the last time the mechanic said the ball had a tight spot. I feel that the cardan joint t case connection is what failed, but why? I am having some pictures uploaded.
 

Attachments

·
Internet Owner
Joined
·
9,510 Posts
I beg to differ Ricky, when your square contraption has as many offroad trips on as my Jeeps and you do so without any major breakdowns we'll talk what Jeep is better :D The front CV on a TJ is a maintenance item that gets ignored.
We don;t have this funky disconnect, we can flat tow without any modification.
We don't have crappy feed back carburators, ours come standard with power steering and a decent brake booster. Want me to continue :D

Mine has been on a lot of off road trips and I don't have nearly the money you have in yours. Total including purchase maybe close to $4K? and no major breakdowns except for the current cracked bell housing. Busted my rear drive shaft once because I was too heavy on the skinny pedal going up a really steep hill. The TJ behind me busted his and the H1 busted an output shaft on the same hill. All within one hour.
Flat towing is done with no mods, unless you install a lunchbox locker in the front axle.
Nutter bypass takes care of any carb problems.
Mine has power steering and the brakes are great. The e-brake holds like a rock both forward and backward, and if it's set the engine cannot over power it unless the t-case is in four low and first gear.
When my Jeep breaks I can usually fab up a repair on the spot, even most suspension stuff.
Agreed mine didn't come with AC and an airbag, but I run with no top so I would be air conditioning the world and Al Gore wouldn't like that.
If I needed an airbag I would ask my first wife to ride with me.
TJ's ride smoother, I'll give you that.
But a YJ is a tough bastard that takes a severe beating and keeps going.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, so I think the photos of the "carnage" are posted, At least I can see them, ( I am new to the "forum" thing ), The Jeep is at the garage and we are trying to decide on how to fix the problem, and more importantly, what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again.
Please Help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
There are only 2 causes possible. The drive shaft bolts came loose at the transfercase end or the centering ball froze/ welded it self. Take the cv joint apart and you will have your answer. I am sticking with a centering ball failure in the CV. Those things aren't that hard to rebuilt, next drive shaft, if it's a used one, replace the centering ball and u joints in the cv. Should be not much more than 100 bucks to replace the whole shebang
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
been there done that ne when front centering ball failed on front shaft only at 70 mph the whole transfer case goes into many little parts i went to a singe joint with 5" lift and have not had anymore issues
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,560 Posts
I've also don't the exact same thing. Mine was a bad u-joint, after that I had the driveline rebuilt but I kept going through u-joints pretty fast so I bought a new one and I haven't had any problems since
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top