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Ag. Shop Teacher
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ADD a spring---1”to2” lift… QUESTION….. BUT first read the introduction to our School SHOP build of our 1987 Wrangler.

We have started disassembly of the Front, Back and Inside of our 87 Wrangler. We will be getting pictures of each problem area to go alone with our repairs.

We have found several problems:
(1) Both Rear Frame (at rear spring hanger) is RUSTED-OUT.
(2) Top Shock Bolt is rusted-OFF (missing) theother side is about to rust-out.
(3) Gas Tank strap is Loose (tank is hanginglower on one side than the other side) we have not dropped the tank YET to inspect……
(4) Gas Tank Sending Unit—Checked No-OHMS--.
(5) Replace BA10 Trans/TCwith AX15 Trans/TC (crossmember is with donor Trans/TC).
(6) BOTH Front Floor Pans have rust holeS alone the side (next to the kick panel and below the door opening).
(7) Under Front Seats (both) Mounting bolt holes have metal fatigue cracks (maybe rust on underside).
(8) Both Motor Mounts need replacing (no rust under mounts).
(9) Front Frame (where steering box is located) is rusted---small pin-holes inside next to bottom edge alone frame.
(10) ENGINE---- (A) need Carburetor rebuilt, (B) Complete Tune-Up (C) Clean-Up 26 years of Wiring add-on.
(11)Front Axle (both sides) need to replace U-Joints.
(12) Front and Reardrive-shaft U-Joints need/upgrade replacing.
(13) Front and Rear Bumpers need replacing.
(14) Bed-line (not sure which brand yet) inside of Tub and Hard-Top.

THIS is what we have seen/found so far on this jeep!!!!! We are going to fabricate the parts as much as possible in the shop. We have Plasma Cutters, Cutting Torches, Mig, Tig, Stick Welders, Hyd. Press, BandSaws, ColdSaw, Benders, Drill Press, Painting Equip., (BUT No Lift), Floor/Trans. Jacks and etc….. in our school shop. The only thing we are short-on is metal, but this is where “my pocket-book”:( and MY budget will come into play!!!!

NOW-- for Part 1 of our QUESTION….. We are going to change the Front “buck-teeth” Shackles----they are 9” from eye to eye—WOW!!! :eek: Not the look we are going far! Due to budget, we are considering “boost a lift/Add-a-leaf lift” supposed to add 1-2” lift over stock height. Our springs are “weak”, if we do not not get that amount of lift from the "add-a-leaf", then we would add some “boom” shackles to get the height we need to run the 31” X 10.5” grips.

PART 2 of our QUESTION…. IF we go with the “add-a-leaf spring” lift…. Will this cause any problems with the (A) pinion angle (B) Transfer Case needing to be lowed (C) OR???… Something else that we do not know about????

THANKS for the Help and ANY ADVICE. We are hoping to finish by CHRISTmas but Spring-time will be good. We have other projects in the shop, so it might take longer. My students are wanting to get it ready for deer season and some "mud slinging":D....... we will see!!!
 

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The AAL (add a leaf) should not mess with either the pinion angle or the T-Case. Most of the time you can do a up to a 3" lift before you need to drop the T-Case.

With that said you can always add degree shims to correct any pinion angle issues and adding the T-Case drop really is not that big of a deal either.

The AAL will stiffen up the suspension a little, but personally I think they work fine. You can research doing a bastard pack and get some lift that way and then run a 1" shackle. That will clear your tires just fine.

I have done a 1" body lift and shackles and I know I could clear 31" tires just fine. In fact I was going to run 33/10.50/15s before I decided to go another route.
 

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Internet Owner
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The AAL's are fine. As mentioned they will stiffen the ride a bit, but it's a Jeep not a Caddy.
With a slip yoke you keep the pinion angle the same, do not shim it. That is for when you put in a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit.
Any lift over about two to two and a half inches will require a t-case drop unless you change the drive line angle. That can be done with a one inch spacer block or one inch motor mount lift. It will angle the engine downward in the rear for less vibe probability.
The AAL's should get you up enough for a 30 inch tire, a one inch boomerang shackle might get you to a 31 but you will rub a little on full wheel stuffing.
A one inch body lift is cheap and easy. I've heard of people using hockey pucks to do it. That will get you to a 31/32 tire. Cutting the fender wells and putting TJ flares on gets you a little more clearance.

My '88 has a 2.5 inch suspension lift, one inch body lift, one inch motor mount lift, TJ flares, and 5/8 inch boomerang shackles, no t-case drop but I do have the SYE (it would still work) and I run 33X12.50/16's with no rubbing.

I am going to follow this thread to watch your progress. Good luck.
 

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Ag. Shop Teacher
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The AAL (add a leaf) should not mess with either the pinion angle or the T-Case. Most of the time you can do a up to a 3" lift before you need to drop the T-Case.

With that said you can always add degree shims to correct any pinion angle issues and adding the T-Case drop really is not that big of a deal either.

The AAL will stiffen up the suspension a little, but personally I think they work fine. You can research doing a bastard pack and get some lift that way and then run a 1" shackle. That will clear your tires just fine.

I have done a 1" body lift and shackles and I know I could clear 31" tires just fine. In fact I was going to run 33/10.50/15s before I decided to go another route.
Thanks for the reply and Info.
We will research, just did not want to create more problems with the lifting without knowing the "cause and effect" on the suspension and it's components.
 

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Ag. Shop Teacher
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The AAL's are fine. As mentioned they will stiffen the ride a bit, but it's a Jeep not a Caddy.
With a slip yoke you keep the pinion angle the same, do not shim it. That is for when you put in a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit.
Any lift over about two to two and a half inches will require a t-case drop unless you change the drive line angle. That can be done with a one inch spacer block or one inch motor mount lift. It will angle the engine downward in the rear for less vibe probability.
The AAL's should get you up enough for a 30 inch tire, a one inch boomerang shackle might get you to a 31 but you will rub a little on full wheel stuffing.
A one inch body lift is cheap and easy. I've heard of people using hockey pucks to do it. That will get you to a 31/32 tire. Cutting the fender wells and putting TJ flares on gets you a little more clearance.

My '88 has a 2.5 inch suspension lift, one inch body lift, one inch motor mount lift, TJ flares, and 5/8 inch boomerang shackles, no t-case drop but I do have the SYE (it would still work) and I run 33X12.50/16's with no rubbing.

I am going to follow this thread to watch your progress. Good luck.
THANKS for the Info.
We have a "donor" 93 yj (that we are hoping in years to come to do a V8 swap and finish with other parts we have around the shop to make a mud toy out-of-it) that we are are going to rob SOME parts-off. It has 31" street tires/ stock jeep rims on it with NO lift shackles and our 87 has the "buck teeth" shackles with 31" grip/aftermarket rims on it...... is there a difference in the spring rate between the 93' to the 87', OR is the spring just wore-out on the 87'? If so, then we might just swap-out the springs on all 4 corners and put some 1/2" to 3/4" boom shackles on it and be done! We're trying not to rob very many parts from our 93', so we will have a 2nd jeep project. But if money gets low then we will use parts off of it.
THANKS AGAIN for the HELP.
 

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Internet Owner
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Spring rate/size/thickness is the same on both. The '87's springs are probably just tired.
The '93 drive line components (engine, trans, x-fer case) are different than the '87 and are not interchangeable without some modifications..
The suspension components are the same with the exception of the front disc brakes. They are a different size and the rotors are different. They changed them in '90. But other than that, the axles are identical n both Jeeps. The springs and drive shafts are the same, shocks are too.
Swapping the springs could save you some money if the '93's springs are more arched.
Do you know what gear ratios are in the axles? If you swap in the AX15 to the '87 motor you will need a new pilot bearing, they are a different size between the AX15 and BA10. You cannot use the NP231AMC transfer case on the AX15, the input spline on the BA10 is different. You have to use the NP231J that is on the AX15 with it. Both tans are hydraulic clutch so no problems there. The AX15 will have a crank position sensor that you will not need at the top driver side of the bell housing. The 4.2 carbed engine does not use a CPS. You will need to use the skid plate from the '93 on the '87 because the trans mount is in a different spot too. The holes at the frame are the same so no problem there.
 

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Ag. Shop Teacher
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My Bad...... wrong year donor jeep-------92' is correct!!!

Spring rate/size/thickness is the same on both. The '87's springs are probably just tired.
The '93 drive line components (engine, trans, x-fer case) are different than the '87 and are not interchangeable without some modifications..
The suspension components are the same with the exception of the front disc brakes. They are a different size and the rotors are different. They changed them in '90. But other than that, the axles are identical n both Jeeps. The springs and drive shafts are the same, shocks are too.
Swapping the springs could save you some money if the '93's springs are more arched.
Do you know what gear ratios are in the axles? If you swap in the AX15 to the '87 motor you will need a new pilot bearing, they are a different size between the AX15 and BA10. You cannot use the NP231AMC transfer case on the AX15, the input spline on the BA10 is different. You have to use the NP231J that is on the AX15 with it. Both tans are hydraulic clutch so no problems there. The AX15 will have a crank position sensor that you will not need at the top driver side of the bell housing. The 4.2 carbed engine does not use a CPS. You will need to use the skid plate from the '93 on the '87 because the trans mount is in a different spot too. The holes at the frame are the same so no problem there.
Sorry :( for the wrong year on our "donor" jeep, It's a 92'. One of my student was reading this post and e-mail me that I had made a ERROR in the year of our donor jeep. It is a 92' not a 93'.
Will this, being a 92', make any difference with the above information?
Which pilot bearing (make, model and engine) will we need to install when we swap-out the BA 10 &TC to the AX15 and NP231J that is in the donor 92'? Thanks for the 'head-up' on also swaping-out the skid plate. The skid plate/tran. mount is a rusted mess.... we will need to fabricate a new-one from the old one!
Not sure at this time if we are going to swap-out the axles with the 92' to our 87'. BUT if it would be better (taller gear in 92' axles?--- I think they are stock???) then, we will swap.
Thanks again for the info.!
 

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Internet Owner
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You will need a new pilot bearing for the '92. The hole in the flywheel is the same but the pilot bearing is different in the center. They are about $7 at Autozone. Use a hooked shaped screwdriver to pop the old one out but be careful not to mung up the outer edges.
The '92 and '93 are pretty much identical in every way. I think the smog stuf is different but that's about it. So no worries on the "error".
As far as the axles, there should be a tab on the diff cover that tells you the gear ratio. On the six cylinder they used the 3:07, up to 3:73 gears.
Lower is better. The 3:07 gears are dogs. I put 4:11's in mine from a '95 four cylinder YJ. Most of the four bangers came stock with that gear setup. The '95 was the best of the YJ Dana 30's because of the larger knuckle and outer u-joints.
Speaking of axles, that Dana 35 in the rear is the weakest link in your drive train. If you keep your foot out of it, it MIGHT hold up. The Dana turdy five came in all years of the YJ and some years of the TJ.
A good junk yard swap in axle is the '99 to '01 Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end. You get disc breaks, it's stronger than a Dana 44 but not as strong as a Dana 60. Similar to the Ford nine inch they use in race cars, it holds up really well. Another nice feature is that it is a 5 on 4.5 lug pattern exactly like the YJ so wheels fit right on. The emergency brake is MUCH stronger than the turdy five one too. Just be certain to match the rear axle gear ratio to the front or you will trash the transfer case as soon as you put it into 4 low and hit the gas. The Dana 30 in mine is a 4:11 and the Ford 8.8 is a 4:10. As long as you are within two you are OK.
 
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